Power Commander and AutoTune

[nordberg]

I'm looking at buying these two pieces, and I want to make sure I'm using the right ones. You guys that have these mods; are you using the DynoJet PC5 model #22-040 and DynoJet Auto Tune model #AT-200? Looks like the AT-200 is for single exhaust and AT-300 is for a dual system. How am I doing?

Thanks, brothers.
Steve

 

[lyric911]

I'm looking at buying these two pieces, and I want to make sure I'm using the right ones. You guys that have these mods; are you using the DynoJet PC5 model #22-040 and DynoJet Auto Tune model #AT-200? Looks like the AT-200 is for single exhaust and AT-300 is for a dual system. How am I doing?

Thanks, brothers.
Steve

Yes to both.

 

[Harrywz]

I'm looking at buying these two pieces, and I want to make sure I'm using the right ones. You guys that have these mods; are you using the DynoJet PC5 model #22-040 and DynoJet Auto Tune model #AT-200? Looks like the AT-200 is for single exhaust and AT-300 is for a dual system. How am I doing?

Thanks, brothers.
Steve

And don't forget a map for what u have installed for a good starting point.

 

[impostor1981]

If u get auto tune u dont need mapping, thats what thia device is for ;-)

 

[Harrywz]

If u get auto tune u dont need mapping, thats what thia device is for ;-)

In the docs that come with the autotune this paragraph is in it;

"It is recommended to load a base map into the PVC that best corresponds to your bikes current configuration. This will decrease the time in which it takes the Autotune module to achieve its target air/fuel."

 

[nordberg]

Right on. So how do I get a baseline map? Never used these before, so I'm a bit new to the whole process. I've seen some guys talking about downloading them from the internet. How would you load them into the PC5? Are there USB plugs with it?

 

[lyric911]

Right on. So how do I get a baseline map? Never used these before, so I'm a bit new to the whole process. I've seen some guys talking about downloading them from the internet. How would you load them into the PC5? Are there USB plugs with it?

They have a couple of maps online for slip-ons/air filter changes. Start with one of those, or get a map from another user that has similar mods.

You can use it without a base map, it'll just take longer.

 

[Harrywz]

Right on. So how do I get a baseline map? Never used these before, so I'm a bit new to the whole process. I've seen some guys talking about downloading them from the internet. How would you load them into the PC5? Are there USB plugs with it?

There are 3 maps available for north america, Welcome to Power Commander Motorcycle Fuel Injection Tuning Module / Fazer&year=2011&mk=28&mdl=113&yr=2011

Use the one that is closest to your bikes config. Link does not work properly. Once you get to page, select your bike. 2011 or 2012 are the same

 

[Fazed]

I am new to all this power commander and maps stuff. I'm used to changing jets and stuff with carbs .

What I would like is a nicely running bike, but not sacrifice fuel economy. Not because I'm a tight wad, but I ride 110kms a day commuting and stopping for fill ups every 2 days is already bugging me. I was used to a 22 litre tank on my last bike. My only mods will be air filter and slip on. Would a PCV with autotune acheive my goals?

I know with the older bikes running carbs, the basic rule of thumb is slip on or air filter doesn't require re-jetting but do both and you will. Can I run K&N air filter and slip-on without going too lean?

Is it even worth me doing it?

 

[Harrywz]

I am new to all this power commander and maps stuff. I'm used to changing jets and stuff with carbs .

What I would like is a nicely running bike, but not sacrifice fuel economy. Not because I'm a tight wad, but I ride 110kms a day commuting and stopping for fill ups every 2 days is already bugging me. I was used to a 22 litre tank on my last bike. My only mods will be air filter and slip on. Would a PCV with autotune acheive my goals?

I know with the older bikes running carbs, the basic rule of thumb is slip on or air filter doesn't require re-jetting but do both and you will. Can I run K&N air filter and slip-on without going too lean?

Is it even worth me doing it?

You will have a nice running bike but your fuel economy will suffer. You don't get something for nothing. You will need to make the mixture richer. As soon as you add more air you are leaning the mixture. With a slip on, you are just giving better exhaust flow, getting more noise and the stock ECM can usually compensate for this. You can always try the 2 mods, run your bike see how the motor runs and then shut down from hiway speed and pull the plugs and check colour. You can tell if you are running too lean when you crank the throttle and the bike will hesitate or ping badly. You may also introduce a dead spot in the power band. You would be surprised at how much air a K&N filter gives.

 

[Marthy]

Hi everyone. I'm Marthy from the 6R forum. Been here few time but just sign up today. Kind of looking around to upgrade my ride sometime not soon enough.

I got the PCV and AT when I started to build exhaust for the 6R. The combo work fine but here's few tips about the Auto Tune.

First of all Auto tune is not bullet proof, you need to be able to read between the lines. This system give you trim values accordingly to what fuel ratio you think is best or safe (13.5 to 13.0 usually work good) This system will not compensate like it will do on a car... he ECU still run close loop, you just adjust the fuel curve by +/- 100%

2- Find the best base map you can find for your set up. The closer the map, the easier it gets. Put more attention to the bottom end, under 20% throttle at first.

3- AutoTune work great TPS base over 20% throttle. So make sure you input 0 in the table everywhere under 20%.

4- If you really want to get crazy about tuning it right (like me) PLX MAP sensor will do an awesome job to tune under 20% throttle. It did fix a lot of flat spot for me on the map.

5-Don't be afraid to try to play with the map. The maps are like a Excel spreadsheet. You can copy and past them all day long. Highlight a section of the map and use "PAGE UP, PAGE DOWN" to change values (don't have to go in each cell and change them one by one)

6-If you are concern about MPG, PCV as the map per gear option. That mean you can have a different map for each gear. By example mine are done this way. 1st-3rd gear are Sports maps, 4th-6th gears are Touring maps. Touring maps are the same as Sports map over 20% throttle. Under 20% throttle the touring maps are a bit more lean (safe lean) for better MPG. But to use those you need to connect your speed sensor the the PCV with a single wire. It should be in the instruction manual

7- Once you got the map where you like it, Acceleration Pump feature is a killer!
* % throttle (how much travel in % you need to engage the enrichment)
* Rev (For how long... in rev)
* % Fuel (How much fuel to add)

A good start will be 75% throttle, 20 Rev and 10% fuel. Play around with it and find the sweet spot!

Hope it help in your decision and tuning.

Marthy

 

[JSP]

Hi everyone. I'm Marthy from the 6R forum. Been here few time but just sign up today. Kind of looking around to upgrade my ride sometime not soon enough.

I got the PCV and AT when I started to build exhaust for the 6R. The combo work fine but here's few tips about the Auto Tune.

First of all Auto tune is not bullet proof, you need to be able to read between the lines. This system give you trim values accordingly to what fuel ratio you think is best or safe (13.5 to 13.0 usually work good) This system will not compensate like it will do on a car... he ECU still run close loop, you just adjust the fuel curve by +/- 100%

2- Find the best base map you can find for your set up. The closer the map, the easier it gets. Put more attention to the bottom end, under 20% throttle at first.

3- AutoTune work great TPS base over 20% throttle. So make sure you input 0 in the table everywhere under 20%.

4- If you really want to get crazy about tuning it right (like me) PLX MAP sensor will do an awesome job to tune under 20% throttle. It did fix a lot of flat spot for me on the map.

5-Don't be afraid to try to play with the map. The maps are like a Excel spreadsheet. You can copy and past them all day long. Highlight a section of the map and use "PAGE UP, PAGE DOWN" to change values (don't have to go in each cell and change them one by one)

6-If you are concern about MPG, PCV as the map per gear option. That mean you can have a different map for each gear. By example mine are done this way. 1st-3rd gear are Sports maps, 4th-6th gears are Touring maps. Touring maps are the same as Sports map over 20% throttle. Under 20% throttle the touring maps are a bit more lean (safe lean) for better MPG. But to use those you need to connect your speed sensor the the PCV with a single wire. It should be in the instruction manual

7- Once you got the map where you like it, Acceleration Pump feature is a killer!
* % throttle (how much travel in % you need to engage the enrichment)
* Rev (For how long... in rev)
* % Fuel (How much fuel to add)

A good start will be 75% throttle, 20 Rev and 10% fuel. Play around with it and find the sweet spot!

Hope it help in your decision and tuning.

Marthy

Hey buddy!

 

[Vapordan]

Hi everyone. I'm Marthy from the 6R forum. Been here few time but just sign up today. Kind of looking around to upgrade my ride sometime not soon enough.

I got the PCV and AT when I started to build exhaust for the 6R. The combo work fine but here's few tips about the Auto Tune.

First of all Auto tune is not bullet proof, you need to be able to read between the lines. This system give you trim values accordingly to what fuel ratio you think is best or safe (13.5 to 13.0 usually work good) This system will not compensate like it will do on a car... he ECU still run close loop, you just adjust the fuel curve by +/- 100%

2- Find the best base map you can find for your set up. The closer the map, the easier it gets. Put more attention to the bottom end, under 20% throttle at first.

3- AutoTune work great TPS base over 20% throttle. So make sure you input 0 in the table everywhere under 20%.

4- If you really want to get crazy about tuning it right (like me) PLX MAP sensor will do an awesome job to tune under 20% throttle. It did fix a lot of flat spot for me on the map.

5-Don't be afraid to try to play with the map. The maps are like a Excel spreadsheet. You can copy and past them all day long. Highlight a section of the map and use "PAGE UP, PAGE DOWN" to change values (don't have to go in each cell and change them one by one)

6-If you are concern about MPG, PCV as the map per gear option. That mean you can have a different map for each gear. By example mine are done this way. 1st-3rd gear are Sports maps, 4th-6th gears are Touring maps. Touring maps are the same as Sports map over 20% throttle. Under 20% throttle the touring maps are a bit more lean (safe lean) for better MPG. But to use those you need to connect your speed sensor the the PCV with a single wire. It should be in the instruction manual

7- Once you got the map where you like it, Acceleration Pump feature is a killer!
* % throttle (how much travel in % you need to engage the enrichment)
* Rev (For how long... in rev)
* % Fuel (How much fuel to add)

A good start will be 75% throttle, 20 Rev and 10% fuel. Play around with it and find the sweet spot!

Hope it help in your decision and tuning.

Marthy

Put some more detail in there man . Love that shit. Love it!

 

[Marthy]

Put some more detail in there man . Love that shit. Love it!

I put as much general information as I could. Much more that I ever found... I learn on the field and end up getting few tips here and there over time. If you have more specific question let me know.

Cheers!

 

[Vapordan]

I put as much general information as I could. Much more that I ever found... I learn on the field and end up getting few tips here and there over time. If you have more specific question let me know.

Cheers!

So, you're not just repeating stuff somebody told you? *queue the fireworks*

 

[Marthy]

So, you're not just repeating stuff somebody told you? *queue the fireworks*

LOL I learn it the long way... I use to tune engine back in the days with carbs. So all I had to do is apply what I know to a laptop. Much easier... Hey, I'm from Montreal. Been in the States for a bit over 12 years now.

 

[Hoover]

I am not sure if I got a good one and others didn't, but I am runing a Yoshi R77 with the killa removed and K&N air filter and don't have any running issues.
I have 4500 miles on mine, a lot of city but some highway and twisties and my bike runs like silk. There is a small, very small hiccup in the midrange but in all honesty, I dont notice it in any gear but first and even then it is so small, its not worth the big hassle and $$$ to get rid of it.
I am no stranger to either product, or others similar, my previous 3 bikes, 03 Kawi z1000, 97 TL1000s and Bandit 12, all benefited greatly from a dyno jet and/or re-map. I just don't think the 8's problem is big enough to warrant it.

When I ride hard, I shift above the flat spot once I'm into 2nd. When I ride in town, I shift right at it. I just don't feel the need to plunk down a shit ton of wonga for minimal hp gain and a prettier dyno graph.

Just my humble, opinionated opinion though

 

[Marthy]

I am not sure if I got a good one and others didn't, but I am runing a Yoshi R77 with the killa removed and K&N air filter and don't have any running issues.
I have 4500 miles on mine, a lot of city but some highway and twisties and my bike runs like silk. There is a small, very small hiccup in the midrange but in all honesty, I dont notice it in any gear but first and even then it is so small, its not worth the big hassle and $$$ to get rid of it.
I am no stranger to either product, or others similar, my previous 3 bikes, 03 Kawi z1000, 97 TL1000s and Bandit 12, all benefited greatly from a dyno jet and/or re-map. I just don't think the 8's problem is big enough to warrant it.

When I ride hard, I shift above the flat spot once I'm into 2nd. When I ride in town, I shift right at it. I just don't feel the need to plunk down a shit ton of wonga for minimal hp gain and a prettier dyno graph.

Just my humble, opinionated opinion though

Adding a bit of fuel 3-5% at the time where you have your flat spot (RPM / %Throttle) might smooth things out. Worked great for my maps.

 

[Fazed]

Where is this flat spot? I haven't noticed one

I am serious, but I've come from a bike based on a KZ 750 air cooled motor

 

[Mrpacis]

Do you mean the cheapest way of getting rid of flat spot is to rejet not buy the expensive pc?