Suggestions for front forks.


New member
Hello y'all,

Ive been reading various posts about r1 front forks being fitted to the FZ8's. I have a couple questions about some of the things i have read. Does the R1 front end just fit on to our bike with little to no mods? What are the size differences (like length) between our stock forks and R1 forks? What else is recommended when swapping out thr front end to ensure our bikes are handling correctly?
I'm looking to lower my bike as I tip toe on it now so would putting on the R1 front (if it is shorter) be a viable solution for lowering my front end?

Please feel free to include things that i may have missed/not known about and/or direct me to various threads where this info has posted prior.

Thank you all.


Been There, Done That (more than once)


Here is a link to a fairly comprehensive 'how to': SManZ's R1 Front End Conversion/Mini How-To - FZ1OA Message Board

There are many R1 - FZ1 - FZ8 similarities. Not the front wheel, axle & brakes. Best to get a complete package of R1 forks, axle, wheel, brakes & rotors. Fender will swap. Individual brake lines recommended. Master cylinder swap optional.

You can use certain R1 triples ('04 through '08), but they must be modified and machined for handlebar mounts and swing angle. They will give a different fork angle/rake and trail. Search the FZ1oa for posts I have made.

Lowering only the front end changes fork angle and affects handling. Good: better turn in. Bad: Instability at high speeds - steering damper recommended.

If you desire only to lower ride height and reduce the inseam requirement, consider using an '04-'06 R1 lowering dogbone: 226-230mm center distance (stock FZ8: 216mm).

This is a special part which allows clearance for the lower shock eye: PSR Link R1.jpg (Install with web on bottom).

You will also have to raise your forks in the triples by 7-10mm to retain a 25-26 degree head angle. The R1 forks are 5mm-7mm shorter (depending on year) and the lowering link drops the rear by 20mm or so (depending on the mfr/model).

Good news, your soles will be on the ground. Bad news, cornering clearance is reduced. If you like to ride aggressively, change Spike to 'Sparky'. Read up on handling dynamics.

The R1 swap can be done with an intermediate level of mechanical ability and tools. Some specialty tools required such as a 19mm internal hex for the R1 front axle.

If want more than your feet touching the ground do the R1 front and also replace the rear shock. Otherwise the extended dogbone (above) will do.