Power Commanders - Worth the money?

F3NIX

New member
I've been reading about Power commanders and from what i can gather they are pretty useful items for ironing out throttle glitches, smoother power delivery and improving fuel economy.
Has anyone fitted one are they worth the cash and would you guys recommend buying one?
Are there any alternatives?
Your thoughts please...

OK...So I just got my FZ8 about a week ago. I dropped some coin and bought the yoshimura carbon fiber pipe and power commander V. I had the dealership install both and now I am wondering if they actually changed the stock map for my bike. I get backfiring and pop when i let off the throttle. It isnt here and there its everytime. Does that sound like maybe its not tuned properly? This is my first power commander and I think I have alot to learn. Where can I get a correct map for my bike?

Any help would be much appreciated...

F3
 

master paper clip

New member
OK...So I just got my FZ8 about a week ago. I dropped some coin and bought the yoshimura carbon fiber pipe and power commander V. I had the dealership install both and now I am wondering if they actually changed the stock map for my bike. I get backfiring and pop when i let off the throttle. It isnt here and there its everytime. Does that sound like maybe its not tuned properly? This is my first power commander and I think I have alot to learn. Where can I get a correct map for my bike?

Any help would be much appreciated...

F3

That's got nothing to do with your tune, exhaust or power commander. That's from your ais system, its always been there the stock exhaust is just really good at hiding it, u have to block your ais... U can get block of plates and remove the whole system, of remove the lower half of your air box and block the air line on the bottom left side of the box with a wooden dowl or a vaccume cap
 

F3NIX

New member
That's got nothing to do with your tune, exhaust or power commander. That's from your ais system, its always been there the stock exhaust is just really good at hiding it, u have to block your ais... U can get block of plates and remove the whole system, of remove the lower half of your air box and block the air line on the bottom left side of the box with a wooden dowl or a vaccume cap

I was wondering because I was watching some of the other exhaust vids and noticed they had the same problem. So by blocking those off are you changing anything as far as emissions goes? what are the AIS ports? I have heard them mentioned here and heard that its quite a task to do it.

Thanks for the info,

F3
 

master paper clip

New member
Is a air injection system, it injects fresh air I to the exhaust to burn off any excess fuel and keep the cat clean, strictly an emissions thing, just blocking it is easy, prop te tank up, remove the top half of the air box, then the velocity stacks and the bottom half should come up, te line your looking for goes into te bottom of the box on the right side, I didn't remove mine I went this route cause the system only weights like 1lb so didn't feel like spending the 30$ just to remove it
 

F3NIX

New member
roger that. I was just watching a video on howto do it...doesnt look too difficult. Thanks for your help!

Also...I noticed alot of people on here have a signature that lists their bike and its mods....how do i create one? Im not seeing it on the User CP page :(
 

medivh66

Pillion
I left my ais intact on my sv1000s and have no intention of removing it from my 8 for 2 reasons. First, phoenix is the only place in the country that still requires emission testing on motorcycles. Second, i like how it sounds. On my old sv1000s i had full yosh 2 into 1 exhaust. The excess fuel would ignite and shoot flames out the back.

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decooney

New member
Is a air injection system, it injects fresh air I to the exhaust to burn off any excess fuel and keep the cat clean, strictly an emissions thing, just blocking it is easy, prop te tank up, remove the top half of the air box, then the velocity stacks and the bottom half should come up, te line your looking for goes into te bottom of the box on the right side, I didn't remove mine I went this route cause the system only weights like 1lb so didn't feel like spending the 30$ just to remove it


I ordered the dumb little blockoff plates today and will remove the AIS unit instead of plugging it off. Something else to store in boxes I guess... Oh well. I was going to leave my AIS alone all together but found out the AIS system interferes with dyno AFR readings and results, and will not allow for a proper tune and mapping. Also, I learned from another guy who stated when you stop the introduction of the air from the AIS it actually changes the behavior of deceleration braking in a more predictable way with some theory behind it all. Who knows... I'll try it and see. In a few weeks when I get all the parts, ready, and installed, I'll decide then if I'm still going forward with a local dyno or just run it for a while. Hopefully a simple slip-on base map will work to start off with the new slip-on, block off plates, and PCV5.
 
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Hellgate

New member
I ordered the dumb little blockoff plates today and will remove the AIS unit instead of plugging it off. Something else to store in boxes I guess... Oh well. I was going to leave my AIS alone all together but found out the AIS system interferes with dyno AFR readings and results, and will not allow for a proper tune and mapping. Also, I learned from another guy who stated when you stop the introduction of the air from the AIS it actually changes the behavior of deceleration braking in a more predictable way with some theory behind it all. Who knows... I'll try it and see. In a few weeks when I get all the parts, ready, and installed, I'll decide then if I'm still going forward with a local dyno or just run it for a while. Hopefully a simple slip-on base map will work to start off with the new slip-on, block off plates, and PCV5.

"The Guy" is not correct. AIS has nothing to do with an inaccurate exhaust reading as it only works in trailing throttle. Exhaust readings are done during open throttle. It also has nothing to do with engine braking, that is controlled by the ECU.

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master paper clip

New member
No that's correct, if u leave the ais connected the computer reads the injected air as part of the afr and u get a false reading, this isn't a guess its been proven time an time again... Plus a computer doesn't only read on acceleration, if that was the case then why would they waste the time letting a motor wind down on a dyno instead of just hitting the brakes, they take reading during acceleration and unde decel... Because your not just accelerating on your bike all the time
 

b-eock

New member
Yes, HellGate, you'd be wrong about that. It causes a misread in the AFR.

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Marthy

Member
Who said it was too much fuel? Anyone double check that???

Well, I did.

If any of you still have excessive popping, try this...

In the 0% TPS column insert

2000-2750 RPM > 15% fuel
3K-5K > 30% fuel

Let me know how it goes... try a little less or a little more +/-5 at the time. It can be tune to the point where it doesn't pop at all. Anything over 15:1 AF ratio the fuel mixture will ignite in the exhaust from the heat...

If it still pop with the throttle very slightly open... do the same in the 2% column over 3K RPM... maybe won't need as much.

EDIT:

Here some data I had from the R779 conversion. You can see here that at 3500 RPM with the throttle shut at 0% the AF ratio is at 16:1 with +30% fuel. In this case at +30% it was enough to smooth things out and not having too much popping. 50% is what I use on my FZ6R.

Don't forget... 30% of not that much @ 0% throttle is still not much more fuel.
 
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decooney

New member
Yes, HellGate, you'd be wrong about that. It causes a misread in the AFR.

Hellgate,
"The Guy" who told me that you will get an invalid AFR reading is a design engineer who designs, develops, and tests new products used by Yamaha Racing teams. This is what he does, every day, for a living. And, it was proven using state of the art measuring equipment. I tend to believe folks who have test data results to back up their claims and findings.
 

Hellgate

New member
Hellgate,
"The Guy" who told me that you will get an invalid AFR reading is a design engineer who designs, develops, and tests new products used by Yamaha Racing teams. This is what he does, every day, for a living. And, it was proven using state of the art measuring equipment. I tend to believe folks who have test data results to back up their claims and findings.

Nope, I'm correct. Sorry dude.

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master paper clip

New member
Nope, I'm correct. Sorry dude.

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Where's your proof of this, cause the odds are severely stacked against u, there are countless dyno shops that would tell u the same thing, many reputable tuners also say the same not to mention the pages and pages of info u can find on the subject that says exactly what were saying, an active ais system will give a false afr reading, these aren't guesses its a proven fact
 

Hellgate

New member
Yes, HellGate, you'd be wrong about that. It causes a misread in the AFR.

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Nope. That is a internet myth.

I've had many bikes tuned with an AIS in place, no difference.

How many bikes have you had tuned, and who tuned them?

My tuner is one of the best, period.

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decooney

New member
Nope, I'm correct. Sorry dude.

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No need to apologize. Different results are being produced. It's possible your tuner's test equipment is not sensitive enough to detect a measurable difference.

This is how it was explained by the design engineer: "The AIS system will change the air rule readings at idle and on deceleration. A change is also seen at light throttle cruise under 5000 rpm once the vacuum drops below the AIS diaphragm spring tension, the system stops working". This test was performed on a brand new bike with a fully functional AIS system.

.
.
 
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