HID BiXenon Projector headlight kit install

Vhutchinson

New member
Hey boys

I ordered a HID kit from BK Moto and have a question for anyone else who has installed one . In the post from a year ago or so the guy did a walk through of an installation and in it he put the ballast inside his modified airfilter. I havent modded mine and dont plan to. Where did you mount your ballast ? I would lime to somehow keep it behind the headlight assembly but I havent taken it apart yet to determine if there will be enough free space. Thanks in advance boys !

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MotoZen

New member
I didn't do the bkmoto kit, but I did manage to tuck it behind the headlight. I zip tied it on the left side of the bike directly between the left fork and the tree. I got the idea from woody, so thank him.

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Woody146

Banned
It's hiding back in there. Behind ignition...you can see the ziptie..takes some fandangling and a few zip ties but it fits right in there....and you don't have to lift the tank IF you run into problems
 

Vhutchinson

New member
Perfect. Thats what I was hoping . Did you find the wiring portion to be fairly easy ? The walkthrough doesnt go into alot of detail about the actual wiring itself. It says it uses the oem harness which is nice

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Tix

New member
It's hiding back in there. Behind ignition...you can see the ziptie..takes some fandangling and a few zip ties but it fits right in there....and you don't have to lift the tank IF you run into problems

How hot does the ballast get? I'm just wondering if there is any risk of melting wires?
 

MotoZen

New member
Perfect. Thats what I was hoping . Did you find the wiring portion to be fairly easy ? The walkthrough doesnt go into alot of detail about the actual wiring itself. It says it uses the oem harness which is nice

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I'm pretty sure that the bkmoto kit uses morimoto stuff. If so, it's fairly straight forward. The only confusing part was to remember that the orange connector goes to headlight connector, the yellow one goes to the ballast.

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Vhutchinson

New member
I'm pretty sure that the bkmoto kit uses morimoto stuff. If so, it's fairly straight forward. The only confusing part was to remember that the orange connector goes to headlight connector, the yellow one goes to the ballast.

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Perfect thanks guys . I will get a hold of you if things start to go south during the install

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Rabbitman109

Lumen Junkie
Perfect. Thats what I was hoping . Did you find the wiring portion to be fairly easy ? The walkthrough doesnt go into alot of detail about the actual wiring itself. It says it uses the oem harness which is nice

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It may be convenient, however that is how wires can get over loaded and melt. The BK moto kit actually will come with a separate wiring harness, which is the proper way to do it.

How hot does the ballast get? I'm just wondering if there is any risk of melting wires?

The ballast will get warm to the touch, but no where near hot enough to do any damage to wiring.

I'm pretty sure that the bkmoto kit uses morimoto stuff. If so, it's fairly straight forward. The only confusing part was to remember that the orange connector goes to headlight connector, the yellow one goes to the ballast.

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The Bk moto kit as far as I know does not use Morimoto products. In fact, The Retrofit Source was not aware of them when I mentioned them before. I have mentioned about labeling the wiring harness, and that is something that TRS is going to change in the future. This is why I like it when customers give me feedback. I can sometimes make a difference.
 
Just about to install my light I got from Rabbitman, how did you mount the wiring harness and ballast? Seems pretty tight behind the light.
 
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MotoZen

New member
Just about to install my light I got from Rabbitman, how did you mount the wiring harness and ballast? Seems pretty tight behind the light.

Most of my harness is run under the gas tank. I tucked the relay in where the ECU sits under the airbox and the only thing behind the headlight is the ballast and the small transformer things for the led halos. Those I tucked in under the pod light, behind the mounting bracket. It's tight, but it'll fit (That's what she said ;-))

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MotoZen

New member
I did the airbox mod and got my ecu flashed while I had the tank off. It's really not hard to take the tank and airbox out. A low power screw gun helps for opening the airbox though. I don't know who's idea it was to use that many screws, but it takes forever with a screw driver.

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Tix

New member
It has to be air tight to work properly.

What?! You don't like pulling dirty, unfiltered air into your engine? It would give you Warp Speed if you did it! :rolleyes:

But being serious - I agree with Moto.
It's a total PIA to deal with that many screws every time you want to get into the engine area to do some work.

A simple clamp style airbox could have been used and made things a heck of a lot easier.
While I'm b*tching about the design flaws; how about a way to prop up the gas tank? (other than using wood/plastic/etc... and jamming it between the upright tank and the frame)
 

DanS

Commuter
While I'm b*tching about the design flaws; how about a way to prop up the gas tank? (other than using wood/plastic/etc... and jamming it between the upright tank and the frame)
You don't need a prop it will hold itself up. Loosen the pivot bolt at the rear of the tank, don't pull it out completely just far enough that the threads are disengaged from the nut. The flange at the pivot point of the tank will lock against the mount... I'll try to take pics tomorrow. I've never used a prop and its never slipped on me.
 

DanS

Commuter
I don't know who's idea it was to use that many screws, but it takes forever with a screw driver.

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It is annoying! Although with a K&N filter that doesn't fit properly it could actually use a couple more screws... I use a ratcheting screwdriver ~ the ex got the screw gun :mad:
 

MotoZen

New member
It is annoying! Although with a K&N filter that doesn't fit properly it could actually use a couple more screws... I use a ratcheting screwdriver ~ the ex got the screw gun :mad:

Boo. Even with the ratcheting screw driver, my forearms get tired. Especially when putting the screws back in. I have a cordless drill and I just turned the clutch all the way down. It took about 30 seconds to get them all back in.

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Tix

New member
You don't need a prop it will hold itself up. Loosen the pivot bolt at the rear of the tank, don't pull it out completely just far enough that the threads are disengaged from the nut. The flange at the pivot point of the tank will lock against the mount... I'll try to take pics tomorrow. I've never used a prop and its never slipped on me.

Picts would be great! I was 'halfway' able to get the tank to stand unassisted, but there was a good deal of tension on the wires and fuel line. I could always disconnect things, but I guess I'm a little hesitant to spill fuel.
 

DanS

Commuter
Picts would be great! I was 'halfway' able to get the tank to stand unassisted, but there was a good deal of tension on the wires and fuel line. I could always disconnect things, but I guess I'm a little hesitant to spill fuel.
Nothing is stretched too tight, just make sure the tabs at the tank pivot flange are secure against the tank mount.... At this point it's only about three more minutes to having the tank completely off the bike and out of the way ~ one quick disconnect fuel line, two electrical connectors and two breather/drain tubes.
 
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