Electrical Failure (ignition fuse keeps blowing every time I turn the key on)

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Xxapotheosisxx

New member
I would like some words of wisdom because I am at my wits end... My 2012 FZ 8 just literally shut down while I was riding to work on the freeway . The screen on the meter turned off and so did my bike. Now when ever I turn my key to the "on" position my ignition fuse blows out! Let me rewind and explain how I got to my present situation. Last year I bought some H.I.D. headlights and installed it on my bike, three months after the add on my check engine light turns on and after turning off my bike the fault code 46 starts to blink...I didn't think much of it (big mistake). I start heading home and noticed this burning odor and rotten egg smell every time I would pull up to a light. I pulled over and checked out this awful smell....turns out my battery is smoking. So I bought a new one but the fault code 46 stayed on...I started to investigate and said it's either my rectifier//regulator or my stator....took the path of least resistance and picked up a R/R on line....changed the R/R and code 46 disappeared but only for a week. I bought another battery because my stator is over charging it to the point of frying it literally. I also bought another R/R and this time it lasted a little longer about four months. Last week my buddy "fault code 46" starts to pay me a visit again... I wanted to finally correct the situation so I now have a new stator, R/R, and battery....i have not yet installed the three new items because I want to fix the issue my bike has which is "the ignition fuse keeps blowing every time i turn my key to the on position" I have checked the main switch, start button, main fuse, all check out fine. I pull out the smaller of the two ecu plugs and realize the ignition fuse does not blow....I checked the wires to see if there is a short in the line but found none. I also reversed the polarity of my voltage test light and clipped the terminal to my positive side of the battery and checked for an active short there were two lines which lit up dimly in contrast to probing any ground on the bike and lights up very bright. My worse fear is that I fried out half my ecu which means buying another one I dont know what else to test? So here are the facts what do I do next? What would cause ignition fuse to pop.?
 
Blackfin

Blackfin

New member
Xxapotheosisxx said:
I would like some words of wisdom because I am at my wits end... My 2012 FZ 8 just literally shut down while I was riding to work on the freeway .

The screen on the meter turned off and so did my bike. Now when ever I turn my key to the "on" position my ignition fuse blows out! Let me rewind and explain how I got to my present situation.

Last year I bought some H.I.D. headlights and installed it on my bike, three months after the add on my check engine light turns on and after turning off my bike the fault code 46 starts to blink...I didn't think much of it (big mistake). I start heading home and noticed this burning odor and rotten egg smell every time I would pull up to a light. I pulled over and checked out this awful smell....turns out my battery is smoking.

So I bought a new one but the fault code 46 stayed on...I started to investigate and said it's either my rectifier//regulator or my stator....took the path of least resistance and picked up a R/R on line....changed the R/R and code 46 disappeared but only for a week. I bought another battery because my stator is over charging it to the point of frying it literally.

I also bought another R/R and this time it lasted a little longer about four months. Last week my buddy "fault code 46" starts to pay me a visit again... I wanted to finally correct the situation so I now have a new stator, R/R, and battery....i have not yet installed the three new items because I want to fix the issue my bike has which is "the ignition fuse keeps blowing every time i turn my key to the on position"

I have checked the main switch, start button, main fuse, all check out fine. I pull out the smaller of the two ecu plugs and realize the ignition fuse does not blow....I checked the wires to see if there is a short in the line but found none. I also reversed the polarity of my voltage test light and clipped the terminal to my positive side of the battery and checked for an active short there were two lines which lit up dimly in contrast to probing any ground on the bike and lights up very bright. My worse fear is that I fried out half my ecu which means buying another one I dont know what else to test? So here are the facts what do I do next? What would cause ignition fuse to pop.?
Click to expand...

Yeah, the battery smoking is a sign of excessive charging voltage. The stator is probably fine. You can get an idea of its general health with an ohmmeter once the old rectifier is removed.

High system voltage can damage electronics like ECUs. Most modules are fairly tolerant though as automotive electrical environments are known to be pretty terrible places in which to conduct electronic operations like fuel injection and sensor monitoring.

If you have an ohmmeter you can do a basic test on your ECU. Disconnect the battery. Remove both electrical connectors from the ECU. On the small connector make note of where on the ECU the RED/WHT (so red insulation with a white tracer) and BLK go. Find the matching pins on the ECU and measure the resistance between them. If you have basically zero ohms the ECU may be dead.

RED/WHT is power from the IGN fuse to the ECU and BLK is ground. If there's a short inside the ECU you'll see zero-resistance between these pins and will blow the ignition fuse.

Other items on that 18-pin connector include:
- 5V sensor reference output from the ECU and sensor return
- lean angle sensor input
- cylinder ID sensor input
- crankshaft position sensor input
- barometric pressure sensor
- starter relay enable
- intake air pressure sensor
- combination meter (serial data)
- fuel pump (monitor?)
- intake air temperature sensor

There's not really anything there that should cause the IGN fuse to pop.
 
cmurder

cmurder

Pillion
Blackfin said:
Yeah, the battery smoking is a sign of excessive charging voltage. The stator is probably fine. You can get an idea of its general health with an ohmmeter once the old rectifier is removed.

High system voltage can damage electronics like ECUs. Most modules are fairly tolerant though as automotive electrical environments are known to be pretty terrible places in which to conduct electronic operations like fuel injection and sensor monitoring.

If you have an ohmmeter you can do a basic test on your ECU. Disconnect the battery. Remove both electrical connectors from the ECU. On the small connector make note of where on the ECU the RED/WHT (so red insulation with a white tracer) and BLK go. Find the matching pins on the ECU and measure the resistance between them. If you have basically zero ohms the ECU may be dead.

RED/WHT is power from the IGN fuse to the ECU and BLK is ground. If there's a short inside the ECU you'll see zero-resistance between these pins and will blow the ignition fuse.

Other items on that 18-pin connector include:
- 5V sensor reference output from the ECU and sensor return
- lean angle sensor input
- cylinder ID sensor input
- crankshaft position sensor input
- barometric pressure sensor
- starter relay enable
- intake air pressure sensor
- combination meter (serial data)
- fuel pump (monitor?)
- intake air temperature sensor

There's not really anything there that should cause the IGN fuse to pop.
Click to expand...
or even easier take ecu stick it on another 8
 
cmurder

cmurder

Pillion
i had a sv 650 once that after we trailered it would blow the ignition fuse every time you would crank it , ended up being exposed wire cant remember if it was the brake or clutch either way one of the spade connectors was touching the bars and would short as soon as you hit the starter , prob not the issue here but just a thought
 
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